Corner cabinet sizes: lazy susan, blind corner and diagonal wall cabinets

Published October 1, 2026 by Design Master Solutions LLC

A corner is the one place in a kitchen where a box on one wall uses space on the other. That is why corners cause most of the wrong orders: two cabinets that each fit their own wall and collide in the same square of floor. The sizes below are standard; what matters as much is how much of the next wall each type takes.

Nominal sizes; always check the manufacturer's spec book. Blind corner pull distances and lazy susan door styles vary by line.

Corner cabinet sizes at a glance

Lazy susan corner base

A lazy susan sits in the corner itself, with a rotating shelf inside and a door that folds across the corner. It takes the same length on both walls: an LS36 uses 36 inches of each wall measured from the corner, an LS33 uses 33. In plan it looks like an L. It is the easiest corner to reach and the most space-hungry, so it fits kitchens where both walls have length to spare.

Blind corner base

A blind corner base runs along one wall into the corner. Part of its front is "blind": covered by the first cabinet on the other wall. A BBC36 or BBC42 is 36 or 42 inches along its own wall and takes only its depth, 24 inches, plus a pull of about 3 inches on the other wall.

The pull is a filler. Without it, the door and handle of the first cabinet on the other wall hit the blind corner's door. Leave the filler out and the order arrives complete but the doors do not open. The pull distance differs by line, and some blind corners can be pulled further to use a wider box; the spec book says how much.

Diagonal corner wall cabinet

Above the counter, the usual corner upper is a diagonal: DCW2430 is 24 inches along each wall and 30 tall, with an angled door across the corner. Like a lazy susan, it takes the same length on both walls, 24 inches each. A plain wall cabinet run into the corner instead takes only its depth, 12 inches, of the next wall.

Dead corners

Two plain bases that meet at a corner leave a square of 24 by 24 inches that nobody can reach. It is a legitimate choice when budget or length is tight, as long as it is planned: the box on one wall ends at the corner, the box on the other starts 24 inches out, and nothing is ordered for the square. What is not fine is a dead corner nobody drew, where two boxes are both quoted into it.

How Cabinet Project handles corners

The layout editor knows which corner type a box is from its SKU prefix: BBC, BLB, BRB and WBC are blind, LS is a lazy susan, DCW is a diagonal wall. A corner cabinet is one placement, pushed against an end of the wall, that reserves space on the next wall:

• Lazy susan and diagonal: the leg on the other wall equals the width, so an LS36 takes 36 inches of both walls and draws as an L in plan.
• Blind corner: takes its depth plus 3 inches of pull on the other wall, and the planner puts a 3-inch filler on that wall when it has boxes.
• Any box with a depth: a 24-inch base that reaches the corner takes the first 24 inches of the other wall, and a 12-inch upper takes 12.

If two boxes claim the same square, the plan, the elevation and the summary show it in red, and the editor refuses to create a new conflict. A dead corner shows once in the summary as an open gap. The corner is counted once on the quote, on the wall where it was placed, so it is not priced twice.

The "Starter sizes" line every new company gets includes LS33, LS36, BBC36, BBC42 and DCW2430 at list price 0 until you import your price list. For the rest of the chart see kitchen cabinet sizes; for the pull and other fillers see cabinet filler strips; and to read a corner SKU, try the cabinet SKU decoder.